UNLOADED PELLET SPLASHER.

Best on shallow water where fish are attracted to the float splash, variations of shotting patterns can be used.

Fishing the pellet waggler is one of the most exciting ways of catching carp, the method is easy and you do not have to be an “expert” to enjoy a fabulous days fishing. Over the past couple of years there have been several articles, by some top anglers, suggesting that they prefer using an unloaded Pellet Waggler. Mostly because, they say, a loaded float ‘dives’ too much and ‘takes too long to settle’ on entry to the water. Until recently it was a fair point but a new product called the Anti-dive Disc (A.D.D) has radically transformed the way a loaded float works.

That doesn’t mean that using an unloaded float is wrong. Far from it, every angler has their own ideas and will fish in a way that is best for them. One disadvantage does, however, remain and that is that pinching large, hard shot such as SSG’s on the line can seriously weaken it, besides the act they are expensive. Moving the shot without opening may also cause the kind of damage that can end with a disappointing line break under strain.

THE RIGHT GEAR

Rods for pellet waggling should have an all through action with a test curve of around 1½lbs. Main lines of around 6-8lbs breaking strain are ideal, anything stronger will impede casting and cut down distance. Hook lengths of around 9 to 12 inches(20-30cms) long and with a breaking strain of 5-6lbs are perfect. These should be tied as hair rigs, either to use a banded or drilled pellets and allowing the pellet to sit just below the bend of the hook. Strong hooks in sizes 16-12 are best, as anything larger appears to make the fish shy. Even a size 16 will give a good hold allowing you to land big fish. In this type of fishing the takes can be quite violent, main lines should be mono so that the shock is taken up by the stretch factor. Placing thin silicone tubing onto the line protects it when you use big locking shot, use a quick change silicone float adaptor, if you’ve not got one a snap swivel will do the same job. A small swivel between the main line and hook length is essential otherwise you will experience line twist, which can be annoying at the best of times.

FEEDING AND CASTING

Fishing the pellet waggler is always easier when the wind is coming from behind you, although, fishing in wind that comes from the side can be just as productive once mastered. It is also noticeable that even when the wind is coming from behind, takes will be more frequent from the wind disturbed water rather than the calm area. Feed can be a good idea as sometimes a variation of lighter or darker pellets will work better on the day. This also applies to the hook bait. When catapulting your feed pellets always aim for the same mark. Try to form a feeding area approximately 2 mtrs wide by 3 mtrs long. This can be done by firing out 6mm pellets almost as far as you can comfortably cast then firing out some 8mm pellets a little further to your maximum distance. Never feed pellets past the furthest distance you are casting, you will only be pushing the fish away from you.

Set your float depth at around 2ft(60cm) and cast to the furthest point of your baited 'corridor', remembering to slow your float down just before it hits the water. This will allow the hook bait to pass the float and help to eliminate tangles. Wait for 30 seconds or so then flick the rod top making your float jerk. Your pellet will rise and fall and at the same time the float will cause a disturbance on the surface attracting the attention of fish in the area. Wait another 30 seconds and then repeat. Continue flicking the rod top and float until you reach the end of your baited area, remembering to take up any slack line between flicks. Once you have reached the end of your run through the baited area, reel in and repeat the process.

GETTING THE RHYTHM

To get the best out of pellet waggling you will need to get yourself into a rythm.Place your rod to one side at a slight angle of 20 degrees with the butt of your rod on your lap, this will give you enough time to pick up the rod should a fish take. Feed 4-6 pellets aiming high to make them splash on entry, give the float a jerk, feed more pellets, jerk the float again, feed again, this is the rythm you must get into. Feeding is the key to success, feed when you reel in, feed before casting, feed when you land a fish. This may seem like hard work but believe us the rewards can be fantastic. Most of the takes will come when the float first hits the water or immediately after one of the flicking actions, you may not see the actual take as it happens in a split second, but you will see the line tighten up and the rod top begin to move round, do not strike, just pick up the rod and enjoy the battle.

If when fishing you get indications on your float but no takes, these could be line bites or small fish nudging the bait. In this situation you must take a guess, if you suspect line bites it means the fish are higher than your bait, so you need to reduce the depth you are fishing at. On the other hand if you are getting no indications it usually means the fish are deeper so again alter your depth, but only ater your depth up or down by a couple of inches at a time.

DONT FORGET!

On some days when the weather is colder the fish may be much deeper in the water. At times their comfort zone may be 6 or 7ft deep. You will still catch at this depth, however, continuous feeding will excite the fish and they'll move up in the water in order to be first in the queue. Don't expect instant results when pellet waggling, occasionally it can take time to get the fish feeding but, remember, always keep the feed going in.

SMALL FISH WATERS

Where a fishery contains a large head of small fish in the 1 ½-3lb bracket, you will find that they have a tendency to shoal up in large numbers, most times close to the surface. In these situations the fish do not spook easily and you will not need to cast more than 25-30 yards to reach them. Which type of float used is not important, but the main criteria is that it should be as short as possible, allowing you to fish that bit shallower. You can 'clip up' for distance, make sure though that your line is strong enough also that the rod is pliable enough to take the initial shock, as even small fish take hard and at speed. Feed pellets should be 4 to 6mm with the hook bait a banded 6mm pellet preferably on a hair rig, hook size 18-16being ideal. You will need to feed constantly as these shoals of fish can be large indeed, do not feed large amounts just 4-6 pellets every 15-20 seconds. When feeding 4mm pellets the fish may come up so high that they begin to boil on the surface taking the pellet the moment it hits the surface. This can be very frustrating as you will get many false bites and foul hooked fish, if this happens simply reduce the fed rate or use 6mm pellets as feed, this will push the fish down again, be careful not to reduce the feed to much otherwise they may move off. Always feed to the same distance and the same mark do not follow the float, when the float drifts out of the area recast. Small feed pellets are light in weight and should be wetted down before use otherwise some may float and drift, taking fish out of your swim. Try not to feed past the furthest distance you are casting to , as this will only push the fish away and out of reach.

FISHING IN WIND.

Unfortunately when visiting a fishery you cannot always get the swim you would prefer, leaving you with the choice of fishing a swim with a side wind or even a head wind. It will obviously be harder to fish than with a back wind, but with a little practice you can still have a very rewarding session. The important fact to remember is that on lakes ,is that when wind blow in one direction there will be an undertow in the opposite direction. This back tow will be vital in slowing down the float in the wind.

Small pellets will scatter over a wide area, using a larger pellet will group much tighter, allowing you to keep distance and line much easier. Use a larger float than normal casting it upwind and slightly further out than the chosen feed area, sink the line between float and rod top immediately, allow the float to drift through the baited area,the undertow should kick in and you should notice the float slowing down. How far upwind and further out you need to cast and whether you jerk the float as it drifts, will depend on conditions. No two days are the same, One day you think you have cracked it, the next completely different, variation and experimentation is the key to success.