Premier Windbeater Carp Controller
Premier Windbeater Carp Controller
|Brand:||Premier Floats & Tackle|
Premier Windbeater Surface Carp Controller.
These surface controllers are specially designed for fishing surface baits in windy conditions. The length of the float helps to slow down the drifting of the bait and add stability.
All the floats are fully loaded and have swivels in the top.
They are finished in matt black with fluorescent red tops.
Sizes: 50 metre, 60 metre & 70 metre.
Windbeater Carp Controller
Surface fishing for carp is possibly the most under-rated of angling disciplines, but in reality is one of the most rewarding, exciting, heart thumping methods there is. You can often see them taking the free offerings then suddenly ’wallop’ one has taken your bait, and all hell breaks out as the battle begins. Don’t be fooled into thinking that this type of fishing is difficult. As with all methods, keep it simple and you will find it quite easy. Surface fishing falls into two distinct styles, close in and long distance. Most times when fishing close in or stalking you can see the fish, casting is easy and feeding simple. The main criteria is keeping quiet and out of sight. Well used commercials and big waters on the other hand demand a totally different approach, long casts may well be needed to reach the fish. When casting long distances you will undoubtedly encounter wind. Learn to use it as it has many advantages, an obvious one is that it distorts the surface which makes it harder for the fish to see the line and your hook.
A rod with an all through action is ideal for this job, preferably around 11ft. To 12ft. and with a test curve of 1½ to 2lb. If you haven’t got a rod in this area then use your feeder rod in conjunction with it’s strongest tip. Main line should be around 8lbs to 10lbs for open water and possibly stepping up to12lbs when fishing in weedy waters. Hook lengths in the 6-8Ib bracket are ideal and should be at least 6ft(2m) long keeping the bait well away from the float and giving good presentation. Types of line for hook length is important. Fluorocarbon sinks and will pull your hook bait down, don’t use a dark line as fish will see this against the brighter sky line. Use a good quality clear mono. Strong hooks in sizes 16 to 12 are ideal, any larger will cause the bait to sit lower in the water, acting differently to your loose feed. Baits can be attached to the hook in a number of ways, such as banding or superglue, but by far the best method is by hair rigging which separates the bait from the hook and increases the hooking ratio. Choose the float for the distance you want to fish and as a guide most surface controllers are marked with the approximate casting distance. Preference should always be for a larger heavier float, as you can always retrieve it back into the feeding area. Take the wind into consideration. If it is strong or a side wind then a Windbeater Controller may be a wiser choice. This type of float has the main body weighted to sit below the surface drag and gives extra stability.
Thread your main line through the swivel on the top of the controller, follow this with two rubber beads or a swivel stop bead. This will act as a knot protector and shock absorber. Now tie either a No.8 or 10 swivel to the end of the main line and in turn tie your hook length to the other side of this swivel. No stop is put behind the float so that in the first seconds of a fish taking the fish does not feel the resistance of the float. Consequently the take is more positive. Another reason for not having a stop behind the float is that it allows line to slide through the controller swivel should a fish dive into weed.
Almost any floating bait will take carp, but by far the best is 11mm expander pellets. If prepared and used properly they are devastating. Just before a fishing session drill twenty or so pellets for hair rigging, roll them around in halibut oil then immediately wipe off the excess oil with kitchen roll. This hardens the pellets and they will last longer in the water due to the oil coating. Another advantage is, because they float better, they counteract the weight of the hook making them more like the loose feed. Oiled pellets are only good for the day they are prepared, because, in time the oil will make them heavy and they will start to sink. Chum mixers are O.K. but only for close work as they do not catapult very far and they soon take on water, plus, with the weight of the hook it doesn’t take long before they start to go subsurface. Another excellent bait, used by good surface anglers is hair rigged bread squares, which can be prepared in less than thirty minutes and then frozen for future use. Take a fresh ’tin’ loaf. Cut off the top, bottom and the two sides to a thickness of around half an inch, place the top and bottom together with the crusts on the outside. Now squash the crusts together until they form a thin layer, do the same with the two sides, microwave the layers for about a minute and allow to cool then cut into one inch squares and freeze. Defrost the required amount the night before you go fishing, they hair rig easily, can be cast a long distance and once in the water they begin to swell making an attractive bait. Boilies, in particular floating boilies have come a long way in the last decade, they have become a very successful floating bait available in many sizes and flavours, as well being easy to hair rig.
As with most fishing disciplines, little and often keeps the fish interested and hunting for food. Think of it like betting. If you put out 20 freebies the odds are 20 to 1 that the fish will take the hook bait. Now only put out 3 and you can quite clearly see the odds are much more in your favour. try to drop your loose feed just upwind of your float. Practice will soon get your catapulting accurate. This will produce a flow of free offerings passing the float and hook bait. The fish may be well down wind, but they will follow the line of pellets until they reach the main feed area. Catapulting more than two pellets at a time usually creates inconsistent delivery. If there are signs of fish in the area of your hook bait but they are not taking the bait, just try imparting movement on the bait. Whether this movement attracts the fish, or whether they think it’s getting away no-one is sure, quite often though, this action produces a savage take. Because carp take aggressively it is not necessary to strike, just pick up the rod and the fish will be on. If you strike you could risk cracking off the line. It’s advisable to ensure that your reel clutch is set correctly. Also, place your rod at a slight angle so that if a fish takes you will notice the rod tip moving, and have time to pick it up and enjoy the battle.
FISHING IN WIND
Unfortunately when visiting a fishery you cannot always get the swim you would prefer, leaving you with the choice of fishing a swim with a side wind or even a head wind. It will obviously be harder to fish than with a back wind, but with a little practice you can still have a very rewarding session. The important factor to remember is on lakes is that when the wind blows in one direction there will be an undertow in the opposite direction. This back tow will be vital in slowing down or even stopping the float through the swim. Use a larger float than normal casting it upwind and slightly further out than the chosen feed area and sink the line between float and rod top immediately. Allow the float to drift through the baited area. The undertow should kick in and you should notice the float slowing down. Catapult yourloose feed, aiming off for wind strength making sure that they end up in the area where the float slows down. How far upwind and further out you need to cast will depend on conditions. No two days are the same, one day you’ll think you have cracked it and the next may be completely different. Variation and experimentation are the keys to success.