Premier Loaded Stumpy Pellet Waggler
Premier Loaded Stumpy Pellet Waggler
Premier Loaded Stumpy Pellet Waggler.
The loaded stumpy Pellet Waggler is designed for fishing shallow for carp during the warmer summer months. These floats are fully loaded and so need no extra shot on the line. The short body makes it ideal for fishing shallow swims or against islands and features. The floats are finished in black with hi-viz tops.
For easy attachment to the line consider using a Pellet Waggler Adaptor!
Sizes: 3gr, 5gr, 7gr &9gr.
The shortness of this float makes it ideal for fishing in shallow water and is extremely useful for fishing tight against islands and features, the larger versions will give good distance casting. Fishing the pellet waggler is one of the most exciting ways of catching carp, the method is easy and you do not have to be an “expert” to enjoy a fabulous days fishing. Over the past couple of years there have been several articles, by some top anglers, suggesting that they prefer using an unloaded Pellet Waggler. Mostly because, they say, a loaded float “dives” too much and “takes too long to settle” on entry to the water. Until recently it was a fair point but a new product called the Anti-dive Disc (A.D.D) has radically transformed the way a loaded float works. That doesn’t mean that using an unloaded float is “wrong”. Far from it, every angler has their own ideas and will fish in a way that is best for them. One disadvantage does, however, remain and that is that pinching large, hard shot such as SSG’s on the line can seriously weaken it, besides the fact they are expensive. Moving the shot without opening may also cause the kind of damage that can end with a disappointing line break under strain.
THE RIGHT GEAR
Rods of 11-12ft. long having a soft all through action are ideal for the job, but almost any rod including feeder rods will suffice . Main lines of around 6-8lbs breaking strain are ideal, anything stronger will impede casting and cut down distance. Hook lengths of around 12 to 15 inches (30-38cms) long and with a breaking strain of 6-8lbs are perfect. These should be tied as hair rigs, either to use a banded or drilled pellets allowing the pellet to sit just below the bend of the hook, these hook lengths can be obtained ready tied from most tackle shops. Strong hooks in sizes 16-12 are best, as anything larger appears to make the fish shy. Even a size 16 will give a good hold allowing you to land big fish. In this type of fishing the takes can be quite violent; main lines should be mono so that the shock is taken up by the stretch factor. Some anglers place a micro swivel between the main line and hook length to avoid line twist, but it is not essential. When using a quick change adaptor and a heavy float it can be advisable to place a float stop or small shot just below the adaptor as with continuous casting the adaptor may slip, altering your depth without being noticed.
FEEDING AND CASTING
Fishing the pellet waggler is always easier when the wind is coming from behind you, although, fishing in wind that comes from the side can be just as productive once mastered. It is also noticeable that even when the wind is coming from behind, takes will be more frequent from the wind disturbed water rather than the calm area. Feed pellets can be any size, although 6mm are the most popular, taking different colour pellets can be a good idea as sometimes a variation of lighter or darker pellets will work better on the day. This also applies to the hook bait. When catapulting your feed pellets always aim for the same mark. Try to form a feeding area approximately 2 mtrs wide , never feed pellets past the furthest distance you are casting, you will only be pushing the fish away from you. Set your float depth at around 2ft(60cm) and cast to the furthest point of your baited area , remembering to slow your float down just before it hits the water. This will allow the hook bait to pass the float and help to eliminate tangles. Wait for 30 seconds or so then flick the rod top making your float jerk. Your pellet will rise and fall and at the same time the float will cause a disturbance on the surface attracting the attention of fish in the area. Wait another 30 seconds and then repeat. Continue flicking the rod top and float until you reach the end of your baited area, remembering to take up any slack line between flicks. Once you have reached the end of your run through the baited area, reel in and repeat the process.
GETTING THE RHYTHM
To get the best out of pellet waggling you will need to get yourself into a rhythm. Place your rod to one side at a slight angle of 20 degrees with the butt of your rod on your lap, this will give you enough time to pick up the rod should a fish take. Feed your pellets, aiming high to make them splash on entry, feed little, often and accurately, this is the key to success, only feed 5-6 pellets a time, this will keep them in the area and hunting for the pellets. It may seem like hard work but believe us the rewards can be fantastic. Most of the takes will come when the float first hits the water or immediately after one of the flicking actions, you may not see the actual take as it happens in a split second, but you will see the line tighten up and the rod top begin to move round, do not strike, just pick up the rod and enjoy the battle. If when fishing you get indications on your float but no takes, these could be line bites or small fish nudging the bait. In this situation you must take a guess, if you suspect line bites it means the fish are higher than your bait, so you need to reduce the depth you are fishing at. On the other hand if you are getting no indications it usually means the fish are deeper so again alter your depth, but only alter your depth up or down by a couple of inches at a time.
On some days when the weather is colder the fish may be much deeper in the water. At times their comfort zone may be 6 or 7ft deep. You will still catch at this depth, however, continuous feeding will excite the fish and they’ll move up in the water in order to be first in the queue. Don’t expect instant results when pellet waggling, occasionally it can take time to get the fish feeding but, remember, always keep the feed going in.
SMALL FISH WATERS
Where a fishery contains a large head of small fish in the 2-3lb bracket, you will find that they have a tendency to shoal up in large numbers, most times close to the surface. In these situations the fish do not spook easily and you will not need to cast more than 25-30 yards to reach them. Which type of float used is not important, but the main criteria is that it should be as short as possible, allowing you to fish that bit shallower. You can ‘clip up’ for distance, but make sure though that your line is strong enough also that the rod is pliable enough to take the initial shock, as even small fish take hard and at speed. You will need to feed constantly as these shoals of fish can be large indeed, do not feed large amounts just 5-6 pellets at regular intervals, be careful not to reduce the feed to much otherwise they may move off. Always feed to the same distance and to the same mark do not follow the float, when the float drifts out of the area re-cast. Try not to feed past the furthest distance you are casting to , as this will only push the fish away and out of reach.
FISHING IN WIND.
Unfortunately when visiting a fishery you cannot always get the swim you would prefer, leaving you with the choice of fishing a swim with a side wind or even a head wind. It will obviously be harder to fish than with a back wind, but with a little practice you can still have a very rewarding session. When fishing in wind, sinking your line between float and rod top can have distinct advantages. One day you think you have cracked it, the next it is completely different, variation and experimentation is the key to success.